Behind the bar, left to rightOpen tonight
Eleven bottles by the glass, 125 ml. Counted at 19:40; the levels run on from there at tonight's pace. Two are argon-sealed and do not move. Those keep for weeks. When a bottle finishes we open the next thing, so this board is never the same twice.
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1.
Kupiškio Sodai
Rhubarb pét-nat, disgorged by hand
Kupiškis, Lithuania · 2024
5,50 € glass · 28 € bottle
3 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 21:15
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2.
Domaine Chapuis-Rey
Gamay, whole bunch, no sulphur at bottling
Beaujolais-Villages, France · 2023
6,00 € glass · 31 € bottle
4 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 22:00
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3.
Weingut Hollerbach
Welschriesling, six days on the skins
Südsteiermark, Austria · 2022
6,50 € glass · 34 € bottle
2 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 20:45
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4.
Weingut Steinhof
Riesling trocken, slate terraces above the river
Mosel, Germany · 2023
6,50 € glass · 33 € bottle
5 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 23:40
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5.
Kmetija Zavrh
Rebula, three years in old oak
Goriška Brda, Slovenia · 2020
7,00 € glass · 36 € bottle
4 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 23:10
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6.
Nikoloz Marani
Rkatsiteli, buried qvevri, eight months on skins
Kakheti, Georgia · 2021
7,50 € glass · 39 € bottle
3 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 22:20
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7.
Clos des Mardelles
Chenin blanc, dry, from 1974 vines
Anjou, France · 2022
8,00 € glass · 42 € bottle
5 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 00:20
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8.
Contrada Feudo
Nerello mascalese, north face, 780 m
Etna, Sicily · 2021
9,50 € glass · 49 € bottle
2 of 6 glasses · gone ≈ 20:20
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9.
Domaine Follet
Savagnin ouillé, topped up, not under flor
Arbois, Jura · 2019
11,00 € glass · 58 € bottle
4 of 6 glasses · argon-sealed, poured to order
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10.
Bodega Vieja Estación
Gran reserva, six years in American oak
Rioja Alta, Spain · 2011
13,50 € glass · 74 € bottle
5 of 6 glasses · argon-sealed, poured to order
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11.
Bodega La Callejuela
Manzanilla en rama, half-bottles, one at a time
Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain · saca of March
6,00 € glass · 30 € bottle
2 of 3 glasses · gone ≈ 00:40
To eat
- Rye sourdough, kastinys, coarse salt4,50 €
- Cold-smoked eel from Juodkrantė, cucumber, dill oil12,00 €
- Farm cheese, fourteen months, walnut honey8,50 €
- Salted lard on rye, raw onion5,00 €
- All of the above, for two26,00 €
The bread comes from the bakery on Pylimo at 08:40 and is usually finished by eleven. Two sparkling wines are by the bottle only, because bubbles do not survive a night on the board.
The room
The vault is brick. The deeds say 1783; the bricklayer's marks argue with the deeds. It holds 12,5 °C the whole year round, which is why there is no wine fridge anywhere in the building.
Coat hooks are at the foot of the stairs and there have never been enough of them. The ceiling is low at the far end. The beam there is painted white for a reason.